5.9 cummins rear main seal install tool full#
5.9 cummins rear main seal install tool free#

Now the skinny, turns out my rear main seal wasn't the cause of the leak. Dry is the word and trust me, it will go in with ease. This way you know the seal is at the proper depth into the engine block, and it is not sitting crooked.

5.9 cummins rear main seal install tool full#

You will make full contact all the way around the crank with the tool. Once the seal starts its way down evenly, continue until the install tool comes in contact with the crankshaft. (The tool has an inner lip that matches the crank diameter, try playing with the tool before you mount the seal to get a feel for how it works.) Trust me it won't let you go any further but you still don't need to beat on it. If your kids are like mine, they won't take kindly to that. Mess it up and you will have to spend your kids lunch money to buy another one. You can bend the seal if you sink one side in further than the other. Just like any one piece seal you must gently work it from all sides to get it in without damage. It also is your install depth gauge for the new seal. This allows you to distribute the force around the seal and not distort it. It gives you a surface to hit with your hammer (I used a rubber mallet). This install tool does 2 things at once for you. The seal only goes one way (full rubber face out). It pretty much looks like a metal ring someone cut off of a can. The biggest part about the install is using the supplied install tool. Why? I don't know but that's what the Cummins package said so that's what I did. Install is per the supplied instructions. Check the surfaces for any scratches or wear.

5.9 cummins rear main seal install tool free#

It needs to be free of any contaminates like oil, dirt or debris. This is not going to end well for you.If you knock this seal in there is no way to get it back out easily.Ĭlean up the seal area both on the crank and the block area (adapter area). Do not try to remove the seal with a hammer and a screwdriver. They are a tight fit but this removal process makes it very simple. Within one pass around all the different holes the thing will probably pop right out. Work your way around giving a couple taps on each hole. Once your small holes are drilled evenly, you can screw in your slide hammer and give it a couple taps out at each location. Examine your new seal to get an idea of the structure of the old one. Either way the old and new seal both have a metal inner structure that you are drilling into, once you pass through that DON'T drill any deeper, we aren't trying to drill holes in the crank to lighten it. We just want to get under the outer layer of the rubber and through the metal lip in the seal. I think you could do 2 holes one at 3 and one at 9 without an issue. One at the 12:00, one at the 4:00, and one at the 8:00. You will also need to drill a couple small holes in the lip of the existing seal in order to screw your slide hammer into the seal (holes need to match the screw end of your slide hammer) . I got one for like 15$ at the local cheapo depot tool shop. Removal: You need a little screw in slide hammer. Not sure if auto parts store XY or Z sells one with the tool but it makes the install per the book if you will. That tool is a must have to properly complete this task. It comes with the new seal and the installation tool. The new seal kit from the dealer was 100$ (give or take a bit). However I had already purchased a Cummins OEM seal before the project started so it was going in lol.

Well after further understanding the Cummins adapter plate and the seal, I don't really think I did. Now when I first started on my truck I 'thought' I had a rear seal leak. I had my transmission and flex plate out of the vehicle already, so it was a no brainer to replace this seal. I will start with the rear main seal because it was more straight forward. Keep em clean.įYI: My post is not a 100% how to, but a little reference and maybe some help to someone with similar issues. I hate dirty engines and grease covered parts. Neither were bad enough to drip on the ground when parked overnight, but there was enough to make things turn oily on the surrounding areas. Before I started the work I knew I had an oil leak out of my front main seal on the crankshaft seal and I thought same for the rear.

Recently I did some extensive engine work to my 20 with the 5.9L Cummins engine.